Sleepless in Seoul

RIP: Namdaemun

2008-02-10T23:35:00.000-08:00

RIP, Namdaemun is all i can say. Honestly it disgusts me that such a wonderful building which took ages to build, should be so callously neglected by the Government.

Is this how you take care of National Treasure #1? Shame.

Namdaemun Gate

2007-09-29T23:21:00.000-07:00

Close to the city Hall, is the Namdaemun Gate, one of Seoul's ancient Gates. Built during the Joseon Dynasty reign, its name means "Southern Gate". Officially it is called as Sungneymun or "The Gate of the Exalted Ceremonies". Made of wood, this 2-Tiered Structure was meant to greet foreign emissaries and keep out Korean tigers( now an extinct species). Damaged during the Japanese occupation and Korean war, the Gate was restored to it's status in 1962 and designated as Korea's National Treasure #1.

The Gate itself is a wonderful specimen of Korean architecture with intricately covered carvings, and wooden pavilions.

Yeah and you can also go back in time, to get yourself photographed with a Korean Guard. The gate has a changing of Guard ceremony at Noon.

Namdaemun Market close by reminded me of the bazaars in Good Ole India, crowded, noisy, with peddlers selling everything from antiques to medicinal herbs. Particularly the Ginseng section.

N.Seoul Tower

2007-09-29T23:04:00.000-07:00

The trip which started with Seoul City Hall, Namdaemun Gate and continued with Tower 63 finally came to an end in the evening with N.Seoul Tower at Myeong Dong located on the Namsan Mountain. You could either drive up the mountain, hike up the stairs or take the cable car. Since me and Mallik had been roaming around all day, our legs were in no position to climb up and so we took the cable car. This tower also popularly called as Namsan Tower, is 774 ft high and is located at an altitude of 1574 ft.

If you do want the best view of Seoul, i would strongly recommend this tower. And i would advise you to visit it during the evening time. Unfortunately our camera was not good enough to capture the view, but its magical in a word. We first took the cable car to the base of the tower. As the cable car moved across the wooded hills and hikers climbing up the steps, was reminded of Where Eagles Dare.

By the time we reached the tower base, it had begun to drizzle. We took out our umbrellas, and had a good night view of Seoul. But it was the next that really was enthralling. We took the elevator up to the top of the tower, and there was an observation Gallery. It was evening 8 PM and as we saw the lights of Seoul, the view was just magical.

63 Tower and the Han River Park

2007-09-29T18:59:00.000-07:00

After the morning visit of Seoul City Hall and Namdaemun Gate, me and my friend Mallik, decided to hit it to the famous 63 Tower. Though not the tallest building in Seoul, it has more or less come to represent Seoul's skyline the way the Empire State Building has done for New York or the Sears Tower for Chicago. It is located in Yeoido Dong, which is an island on the Han River. The Yeoinaru station is remarkable, in the fact that it's built under the Han River, and is located at a depth of 90.4 feet below sea level.

As we get out of the station, there is this lovely park by the side of the Han River. Most of my views on the Han River, were from the train, but this was the first time, i was seeing it up close. The park itself was quite beautiful.

After relaxing for some time on the park, we finally hit it to the famed 63 Tower. The official name of this building is the Daehan Life Insurance Building, but every one refers to this as 63 building. The lower floor here contains an Imax Theater and an Aquarium. But this one was not as good as the COEX Mall Aquarium.

And then we took the ride up the Sky Deck to the top most floor. Some of the views were really dizzying.

There is an observation deck on the top from where one can have a great view of Seoul, as also a photo gallery, where you can shoot your pics.

Seokguram Grotto

2007-09-07T21:43:00.000-07:00

4 km east of the Bulguksa temple on the same mountain ranges, lies the Seokguram Grotto. Apart from the Buddhist temple, this grotto, lying 750 m above sea level, offers a very clear view of the Sea of Japan in the distance. Many people visit this place to get a spectacular view of the sunrise over the sea, as well as the beautiful countryside. Unlike India and China, which came up with the concept of carving Buddha icons in caves and stone walls, the hard granite facade of the Korean hills makes it difficult to carve any images. In this aspect Seokguram Grotto is unique as it was totally carved from granite. The grotto is believed to be a symbol of the final journey into Nirvana. The main Buddha statue is around 3.5 m in height and sits on a lotus pedestal. The Sakyamuni form of Buddha is one representing the phase of enlightenment.

The Buddhist sculpture here has a heavy Indian influence, including the drapery of the folds, suggesting exchanges between India and Korea in the past. Among the statues surrounding the main Buddha are also the two Hindu gods Brahma and Indra. Like Hinduism, Korean Buddhism also has the concept of the Guardian Deities of the 8 directions. Buddhism however annoints the 4 main Guardian spirits or Lokapala( Cheonwang in Korean). The Korean names are Damun Cheonwang( Kubera) in the North, Jeungjang Cheonwang (Virūdaka) in South, Jiguk Cheonwang(Dhatarastra) in East and Gwangmok Cheonwang( Virupaksa) in the West.

Bulguksa Temple

2007-09-07T21:35:00.000-07:00

One of the 7 National Treasures of Korea, it also is the site of 2 more national treasures, the Dabotap and Seogkatap stone pagodas. It has also been placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and is currently one of main temples of the Jogyesa order, which is the main form of Buddhism in Korea. Located on the slopes of the Tohamsan mountain, the entrance to the temple itself has been designated as a National Treasure. Called as Sokgyemun, this consists of two bridges Cheongungyo and Baegungyo. This in turn leads to the Stairway to Heaven, that consists of 33 steps, representing the 33 steps to enlightement. Inside the temple we have the two afore mentioned pagodas.

The Seokgatap Pagoda is also called as Sakyamuni Pagoda. Standing at a height of 8.2 m, the pagoda has basically a very simple design, and is one of the more prominent landmarks in Korea. The Dabotap Pagoda standing at a height of 10.4 m, is very ornately decorated, unlike other Buddhist pagodas. The roof of the pagoda is octagonal shaped, and it has a staircase on each of it's 4 sides. The Dabotap and Seogkatap pagodas together represent the physical and the spiritual world. The main shrine Gwaneumjeon houses the Avalokiteshvara incarnation of the Buddha, while the Geuknakjeon shrine houses the famous gilt-bronze Buddha.

Silla Tombs

2007-09-07T21:28:00.000-07:00

One of the most famous sites in Gyeongju are the famous Silla Tombs. Like the Pyramids, these tombs are the burial mounds for famous emperors and nobility. Most of these tombs are shaped like small hillocks. The shape of the Tombs is due to the Korean belief, that when a person dies he returns to the womb of the earth. Hence the distinctive womb like shape. The size of the tombs varies based on the rank of the person. One of the interesting tombs we visited was the Heavenly Horse Tomb, which is for an unknown king of the Silla Dynasty. Also called as Cheonmachong, this tomb contains many precious items like gold crowns, girdles, jade beads etc.

GyeongJu

2007-09-06T07:07:00.000-07:00

GyeongJu is Korea's most important historical site, and a famous tourist destination. We travelled by bus to reach here, admiring the beautiful Korean countryside, and the excellent road network. We also passed the city of Daegu on the way.

Gyeongju is packed with tourist attractions, and in a way that gives this city a somewhat touristy look. Honestly was not too impressed with the in your face attempts to preserve Korean culture here. Even motels, gas stations, hotels, restaurants are built in an ancient Korean style, and some how that attempt to make it a tourist attraction just puts me off.

It also has a Gyeongju World, a kind of theme park, and resorts and hotels dot it all along. Due to the often touristy nature of the place, prices are exorbitantly high here. But apart from that, this is a beautiful place, with mountains and mist forming a lovely backdrop.For me the best part was on Sept 6, when it was raining, and we walked to the back of the hotel we were staying, and there was a lovely lake there.The lake was empty, no tourists as yet, and the mountains covered with a mist gave a lovely feeling of this place. Which is what i look for when visiting a place. Gyeongju is located close to the coast line, and so has a milder and wetter climated compared to Seoul.

Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla Kingdom in ancient times, and that accounts for it's prominence. It rose to glory during the 9th century, but after the decline of the Silla kingdom it lost its prominence. The city lost it's prominence during the Goryeo dynasty, and when the Joseon dynasty came into power, it further shrank. Religious factors also played a role here. The Joseons were followers of Confucius, and there is not much love lost between Confucius followers and Buddhists. Gyeongju being a site of Buddhist culture, rapidly fell into disarray here.

During the Japanese occupation, GyeongJu was a major railroad junction. It however went unscathed during the Korean war, which devastated the Northern parts of Korea. Today apart from being a tourist destination, has a strong manufacturing sector, and agriculture is strong too. This city is Korea's largest producer of beef and mushrooms.

Bundang

2007-09-05T06:27:00.000-07:00

Bundang is Korea's equivalent of Gurgaon or Noida. It is more of a planned city, with well laid out roads, parks and malls. Till 1989, this was just a sleepy village more famous for it's rice paddies. It started to boom in 1990's when residents of Seoul's expensive Gangnam area, started to move out, unable to bear the rising cost of land. From 1989 to 1996, there was a huge construction program, which ran into scores of difficulties, with protests from local citizens,demonstrations and petitions.

Currently Bundang is the HQ for various international corporations, as well as banks like HSBC and CitiBank. It is also the Head Quarters of POSDATA, where i work. Compared to Seoul, Bundang has more diversity thanks to the presence of many MNC's here.

But honestly i really did not find anything much remarkable about this place here. Shopping malls, fast food joints, rows of apartment blocks, office buildings and some parks here and there. Typical US suburbia, pretty to look at, but nothing beyond that.

PC Bang- Your friendly neighborhood cyber cafe

2007-08-17T05:32:00.000-07:00

One of the most ubiqutious institution in Seoul, is the PC Bang or what we call the cyber cafe. Once upon a time they were all over Seoul, but now thanks to high penetration of internet, and wireless access, their popularity has slightly come down. But still lots of people do throng them. To identify them, just look at the sign which says "PC Bang".

The process is simple in most of these Bang's( the korean word for room is Bang). You take a card, and log in using the number. Its fixed for 1 hour(usually varies from 1$ to 2$), and after that it keeps increasing the rate. You can go in and browse the net for that time. Most of these bangs have comfortable interiors.

Many of them are well stocked with food and soft drinks. But a majority of the Koreans do not come here to chat. No they have another passion. Online Gaming. Koreans are just crazy about video games. They spend hours together, playing them. Some have been known to spend 12 hrs at a stretch on them. There are betting, and there are championships.

Walking into a PC Bang is akin to walking into a movie hall. Sounds fly all over, gunshots, spaceships, and Koreans are known for their loud chatter. Gasps, 4 letter abuses fly all over, as the players exclaim. You can differentiated between a Korean and a non Korean there. The non Korean is the one not playing the video game. Nice way to pass the time here.

August 15- Korean Independence Day

2007-08-15T02:10:00.001-07:00

Which country shares it's independence Day with that of India?

S.Korea

This was a standard question we would often face as Quizzers.

In 1905,Korea became part of Japan under the Eulsa Treaty. And this began a long nightmare of Japanese rule. Till 1945, when Japan's defeat in World War II, forced it to abdicate, Korea suffered heavily under Japanese. That is the reason, Koreans, while being friendly with other foreigners have no love lost for the Japs. The other foreigners whom they hate with equal vehemence are the Chinese, because of it's involvement in the Korean War. To date many Koreans, blame China and Russia, for the artificial division of their nation.

The Japanese replaced the Korean script with their own script. Teaching of Korean language was forbidden, and Japanese language was imposed. Study of Korean history, culture, and heritage was forbidden in schools. And during the War, many Koreans were forcefully drafted into the Japanese army, and Korean girls, were used as pleasure girls by the Japanese soldiers.

In 1919, there was a movement called the March 1 Movement or the Samil movement, when 2 Million Koreans took part in the uprising against Japanese rule. The Japs suppressed the protests violently, around 47,000 people were arrested, 7,509 were killed. A Korean provisional Govt was formed in Shanghai, and a Korean Liberation Army was formed, which fought along with the Allies during WW2.

The Japanese hit back with more repression, including burning entire villages, massacring suspected supporters. It was Japan's defeat in 1945, that finally forced them to give up claims over Korea. So the 15th of August, 1945, is the Independence Day for Korea.

Like the British rule, the Japanese rule had mixed blessings. It provided an impetus for Korea's transition from a medieval state to a modern state. Infrastructure was developed by the Japs, for transportation of their goods and raw material. But again many Japanese settlers,forcibly occupied lands in Korea.

Worse was the cultural genocide to follow, Koreans had to adopt Japanese surnames. The Korean Hangul script was banned. Korean students were forced to adopt the Japanese religion of Shintoism, and students were actually penalized if they spoke in Korean.Korea was ruthlessley occupied and exploited by Japan, the way Poland was by Nazi Germany. And the scars run deep. Koreans also resent Japan's Big Brother attitude, even to date.

Itaewon- An American Ghetto

2007-08-12T01:47:00.000-07:00

There is Seoul and then there is Itaewon, the American ghetto, located on the north side of the Han River. Yep and also Seoul's famous red light area, and a hang out for gays and lesbians. Koreans are very conservative, and do not take to gays, lesbians very kindly. This is the only area which has some bars and bath houses for gays,lesbians. This area also has a high influx of American tourists, and soldiers from the US Army Base located in Korea. In contrast to the sea of yellow,which you find in most of Seoul,this is one of the most diverse areas. You can see an intermingling of white, black, brown, tanned faces. Matter of fact i guess this is the only place in Seoul, where i could spot some blacks.

This is also Seoul's nightlife district, with a number of night clubs, discotheques, but as of now no strip bars. Apart from foreigners and tourists, the place also offers a get away from Koreans seeking to get away from Seoul's strict moral code. While we don't have the kind of moral keystone cops, running amuck, as in Chennai, Bangalore or Mumbai, people in Seoul, generally dont take too kindly to PDA. While i did see a lot of plunging necklines, peekabos, shorts, mini skirts, i have not yet seen any public smooching, forget about necking, and other stuff. Itaewon due to the foreign influence, is more open, and the night clubs, discotheques, are replete with couples in all throes of passion.

Itaewon also has a number of street side shops, peddling everything from T-shirts to helmets to books. And yes like Mumbai's Chor Bazaar, you can get a lot of counterfeit stuff out here. Also many American fast food chains like Burger King, Dunkin Dounuts, Big Mac, KFC have their outlets here. You also get to find Indian, Thai, Mexican restaurants here. For all Indians, seeking to shop for Indian stuff like rice, sambar powder, spices, there is an Indian store here tucked away inside one of the lanes. The general tendency here is to buy for a week or two weeks, and keep them stacked all up.

E-Mart - Korean version of Big Bazaar

2007-08-10T01:29:00.000-07:00

When it comes to shopping, Koreans, love it the Indian way. The sanitized West model of quite efficiency is anathema. That is because Koreans are as pushy, noisy and talkative as Indians are. In Seoul, you would often find yourself pushed, jostled, stepped on, and the Koreans dont mind it one bit. That is one reason, why Walmart never succeeded here. Walmart pulled out of Korea, as the average Korean, was put off by the silence please atmosphere there. Walmart's 16 stores were bought by Shinshagae, a Korean company, which owns E-Mart. Along with Samsung, LG, Hyundai, E-Mart is one of Korea's most famous brand.

E-Mart is Korea's equivalent of Big Bazaar. Like Walmart it has shelves, neatly stacked, with sections for food, vegetables,groceries,medicines, consumer items, toiletries. But the noise level would do any Indian marketplace totally proud. Any Indian person would feel right at home, here, with the crowds, noise and banter. I had heard of E-Mart from the day i landed in Seoul. Basically the reason for it's popularity is simple, it offers at prices lower than the regular shop. Where a bottle of jam costs 4$ in a regular shop, in E-Mart it costs around 2$. It was a straight walk from my home to E-Mart, and one fine day, i walked down to it.

Most of the upper sections, were for toiletries, consumer electronics, clothes. I had already arrived from India loaded with toiletries and clothes. And consumer electronics as of now, no position to buy. Anyway i located the vegetables, groceries section, and headed straight down. As soon as i arrived there, the smells, the noise, the banter, ah, me, i was right back in good old India. The non veg section contains, different varieties of beef, pork, chicken and sea food. Koreans love sea food, but its better to stay away from some of their more exotic dishes like cuttlefish, molluscs, octopus etc. The sight of families, filling their bags and trolleys with vegetables, fruits, and other items, reminded of Big Bazaar. I made some minor purchases, but i had to stand in a queue for the bill. There were also food counters all around, offering different eats from pizzas to Korean delicacies.

Incheon Airport

2007-08-08T19:28:00.000-07:00

I landed at Incheon Airport on July 31,2007. I had heard a lot about this, of being one of the best along with Changi and Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok. The view from the flight was excellent, the airport is shaped like an arch.

As the Singapore Airlines flight landed, i could see many other airlines on the ground, Korean Air, Asiana Airways, Cathay Pacific, Delta etc. This airport is totally owned by the Government of Korea, and to all those in India, who keep clamoring for privatization of everything, maybe there is a lesson out here.

Incheon itself is a major metropolitan city, though it comes under the Greater Seoul metropolitan Area, it has been granted a metropolitan status of it's own. It was a Japanese POW camp during WWII and also the site of a critical battle during the 1950 Korean War. Today its one of Korea's leading economic centers and a major seaport. The airport itself is located on an island, and there is a bridge over the sea, leading to the expressway.

Security is quite tight here, as the list of dont get items is large, contraband, drugs, exotic animal species, medicinal plants. Korea like Singapore, has a very strict policy related to drugs. As i stepped off the plane and walked into the huge lounges, there were travelators everywhere and signs indicating where to go.

I awaited my turn in the Immigration Queue, and it came. The Korean officer was pleasant, asked me some questions, and then informed me that i had to register myself within 15 days. I walked down the escalators, and just caught sight of my luggage on the belt. I took it, and went past the check in without much hassles. As i came out, the person was awaiting me.

One of the best airports i have seen, quiet and efficient. Some of the areas did remind me of Tom Hanks starrer Terminal. There are counters to exchange your currency, and the infrastructure is excellent. The airport is connected with Seoul by subway and road.

Seoul Metro

2007-08-08T00:53:00.000-07:00

My first ride on Seoul Metro was exactly a week back, on August 8. It was not a joy ride but for a more important purpose though. I had to get myself registered, at the Seoul Immigration Office as is the case, for any non Korean, staying for more than 90 days. From my office in Gangnam, i had to change two stations. It was raining heavily, and i wondered whether i could make it. Anyway mustering up all the courage, i walked down to Seolleung station, clutching all my documents. I paid the ticket from Selloueng to first stop Yeongdeungpo-gu Office , and then transfer to another line which would lead to my final destination Omokgyo from where it was a 5 minute walk to the office.

As the train rode in, i got inside the Metro, and it was just fantastic. Not too crowded, and pretty fast. For a greater part of the journey i was underground, and then for about 3-4 km, was travelling in open, where i could see more of Seoul.This area in Seoul, seemed to be somewhat more crowded. Most of the metro stations on the Subway, have hawkers peddling everything from shoes to umbrellas to books to pirated DVD's. Each car has a separate seat for the handicapped, elderly people and ladies. Also the escalators are divided into two parts, one for people who prefer to stand, and one for people who prefer to walk all the way up.

The fare can be paid in entirety, but you have to be careful. While returning back from the Immigration Office, i did not pay the full amount as i was in a hurry. When i landed at Seolleung station, my ticket was getting rejected at exit counter, and red light was beeping. I was totally embarassed, but fortunately, one of the co passengers came to my rescue, and asked me to contact the ticket clerk, who then asked me to pay the remaining amount. While no unpleasantness was there, it was an embarassing situation.

Commuters on Seoul subway can use a T-Money Card, which is a kind of RF card, and it could be prepaid or postpaid. Every time you swipe the card at the entrance, the amount gets deducted or charged to your account. This can be used even in buses too. You could also avail of a metro rail pass.

Most of the metro stations are quite like that of India, only they are more cleaner and well maintained. You can find hawkers, peddlers, and even the ocassional odd beggar. Unlike India, most of these beggars are very old people, and it doesnt hurt, if you can put in some small change for them.

Gangnam Gu- Manhattan+ Silicon Valley

2007-08-03T00:20:00.000-07:00

Take a pinch of Silicon Valley, add a teaspoonful of Manhattan, put in some dollops of Delhi's Jia Sarai and Lad Sarai, add garnishing of Mumbai's Fashion Street, and that is what Gangnam Gu is all about. It is also the area where i stay and work and eat and sleep. Yep in effect my residential and office address in Seoul. This was also the place where i spent my early days in Seoul, walking about, trying to just look around. This is Seoul's equivalent of Manhattan, one of it's most affluent areas, as also it's central business district.

The picture above is that of Teheran Ro, at night, the Korean version of Silicon Valley. My office is located close to it, and this is where you find all the hi tech giants like Yahoo, Oracle, Microsoft(in fact their office is located in POSCO center), Motorola, Samsung SDS, LG Telecom as well as leading international banks like HSBC, Citibank. Teheran Ro is so called because during 1970's, the Mayor of Seoul, visited Teheran, and as a goodwill gesture, named this road( wonder how kindly Uncle Sam takes to it, but then Iran that time, was Uncle Sam's closest friend). I heard Teheran also has a Seoul Street. This street is also called as Venture Valley, due to the high number of startups funded by venture capital firms. One end of Teheran Ro, has a high concentration of small schools, offering coaching in everything from spoken English to GRE and TOEFL. Korea has a very highly competitive entrance examination for Universities, and coaching institutes offering you success in this, sprout everywhere.

This picture is of the World Trade Center in Seoul, which is located in Gangnam, and like it's namesakes in other cities, serves as a platform for international business, conventions and meetings. It has a 46,000 sq metres Convention and Exhibition Meeting ground, where all kinds of international trade fairs are held. This also has a Korea City Air Terminal, where visiting delegates can book their tickets, checkin in their luggage, without having to stand in lengthy queues at the airport.